"In this ... memoir ... author and long- time Paris resident John Baxter remembers his yearlong experience of giving "literary walking tours" through the city. Baxter sets off with unsuspecting tourists in tow on the trail of Paris's legendary artists and writers of the past. Along the way, he tells the history of Paris through a brilliant cast of characters: the favorite cafes of Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, and James Joyce; Pablo Picasso's underground Montmartre haunts; the bustling boulevards of the late-nineteenth-century flaneurs ; the secluded "Little Luxembourg" gardens beloved by Gertrude Stein; the alleys where revolutionaries plotted; and finally Baxter's own favorite walk near his home in Saint-Germain-des-Pres. Paris, by custom and design, is a pedestrian's city-each block a revelation, every neighborhood a new feast for the senses, a place rich with history and romance at every turn."--Page 4 of cover

To walk the walk -- "Walking backwards for Christmas" -- What a man's got to do -- Heat -- Two geese a-roasting -- Hollywood moment -- Hemingway's shoes -- Importance of being Ernest -- Boulevardier -- Murderer's garden -- Going walkabout -- Music of walking -- A proposition at Les Editeurs -- Freedom of the city -- Man who knew too much -- Opium trail -- Postcards from Paris -- Ground beneath our feet -- Looking for Matisse -- Fish story -- Great La Cupole roundup -- Liver lover -- Paris when it sizzled -- A walk in the Earth -- Heaven and Hell -- Blue hour blues -- Mast of Montparnasse -- Fuzz on the peach -- To market -- Boulevard of crime -- Gates of night -- A little place in the Nineteenth -- A walk in time -- Aussie in the Métro -- A touch of strange -- Most beautiful walk in the world -- Appendix. Paris, mode d'emploi (Paris, a user's guide)